Find the exact card and version
Start at the bottom of the card. Next to the illustrator’s name you find the set symbol and a number such as 086/198: the card’s number in the set and the size of the set. Together they tell you which card you hold. When the first number is higher than the second, as in 210/198, the card is a secret rare and usually worth more than the rest of the set.
Then look at the shine. The same card is often printed in several versions, and each version has its own price:
| Version | How to recognise it | What it usually means for the price |
|---|---|---|
| Normal | No foil anywhere on the card | Usually the lowest price of the versions |
| Reverse holo | Foil on the card itself, but not on the picture | Often a little above the normal version |
| Holo | Foil on the picture | Often worth more, especially for rare cards |
| 1st Edition | A small 1st Edition stamp beside the picture, on early sets | Can be worth many times the unlimited print |
| Promo and stamped cards | A promo mark or an extra stamp, for example from a prerelease | Priced on their own, separately from the set card |
Mixing up versions is the most common reason a price looks too good to be true. A reverse holo priced as the rare holo can make a collection look worth far more than it is, so take a second look at the foil before you trust any number.
Check the language
Pokémon cards are printed in many languages. English, German, French, Italian and Spanish cards come from the same sets with the same numbers, so a German card has an English twin. Japanese, Chinese and Korean cards are different: they appear in their own sets, often with other numbers and sometimes with artwork that never came out in Europe.
Language can change what a buyer pays. Some collectors only buy cards in their own language, others look for Japanese prints because of their quality or their artwork. Market price guides often combine all languages of a card into one price, which is a good starting point but not the last word. When you sell, look at what copies in your language actually sell for.
Judge the condition honestly
The prices you see online are for cards in near mint condition: they look as if they came straight out of the pack. Every sign of wear lowers the value, and on expensive cards the difference between near mint and lightly played can be large. European marketplaces describe condition on a fixed scale from Mint, through Near Mint, Excellent, Good and Light Played, down to Played and Poor.
Hold the card under a lamp, tilt it slowly and check these points:
- Edges and corners: white spots along the dark border on the back, or corners that are no longer sharp.
- Surface: scratches on the foil, scuffs, dents or marks from fingers.
- Bends and creases: even a soft bend lowers the grade a lot.
- Centring: borders that are clearly wider on one side than on the other.
Be strict with yourself. Buyers judge the card when it arrives, and a card listed as near mint that turns out to be lightly played leads to returns and disappointment.
Graded cards are a market of their own
Professional grading companies examine a card, give it a grade from 1 to 10 and seal it in a hard plastic case. A high grade can multiply the value of a sought after card, because buyers no longer have to judge the condition themselves.
Grading costs money and takes weeks or months, so it is only worth it for cards that are valuable and in very good condition. Prices for graded cards are separate from the prices of ungraded cards. A price guide for ungraded cards, like the one Scanvisto shows, does not tell you what a graded copy is worth.
Use the price of your own market
Many price guides come from the United States and show what cards sold for there, in dollars. Converting those prices to euro does not give you the European price: supply, demand, shipping and taxes are different here, and some cards are cheaper or more expensive in Europe than in America.
On European marketplaces you usually see three numbers. The trend price follows what the card actually sold for over the last days. The lowest listing is the cheapest copy for sale right now, which can be a damaged card or a seller in a hurry. The 30 day average smooths out short spikes. The trend price is the best single number for what your card is worth today; when it is far from the 30 day average, the price is moving and worth checking again in a few days.
Always look at the date next to a price, too. A price from last month can be far from today’s market for a card that is in demand, and a price guide that updates every day is worth more than one that is updated now and then.
Rule out a fake
Fake cards are common, especially for popular Pokémon. A few checks catch most of them:
- The font and spacing of the text look slightly off, or the energy symbols are the wrong size.
- The colours of the back are too light, too dark or blurry.
- The card feels thinner, glossier or more flexible than your other cards.
- The foil pattern looks flat or covers the whole card in an unusual way.
- The price is far below what the same card sells for elsewhere.
When in doubt, compare the card side by side with one you know is real from the same period.
Selling a card for a fair price
Once you know the version, language, condition and market price, you can set a price that sells. Start from the trend price for your version and adjust it for condition: a card with clear wear sells below the near mint price, and the worse the wear, the bigger the gap. Then look at the copies for sale right now in your language and condition. If yours is cheaper than comparable copies, it will usually sell quickly; if it is much more expensive, it will sit.
Remember the costs that come off your price: marketplace fees, shipping and, for valuable cards, tracked and insured shipping. For a card worth a few euro, selling it alone often costs more than it brings, and it makes more sense to sell it in a lot or keep it for trading.
Describe the card honestly and add clear photos of the front and back, including any flaws. A buyer who knows exactly what they get is happy with the card when it arrives, and that is worth more than a slightly higher price.
Check the value with Scanvisto
Scanvisto does the first steps for you. Point your iPhone at the card and the app recognises it on the phone itself, also without internet. It shows the set, number and language, picks the version, and asks you when it is not sure. Next to it you see the market trend in Europe, in euro, with the date of the price.
Tap the price to see the lowest listing and the 30 day average as well. Add the card to your collection and its value is kept up to date every day. Your first scan is free; the help page explains how prices and scans work, and the collection guide shows how to keep track of everything you own.
Questions
Is my old Pokémon card worth anything?
Most cards are worth little, but early cards in good condition, holos, 1st Edition cards and popular Pokémon can be worth a lot. Find the exact version and check its market price before you decide.
Why are prices online so different from each other?
They often come from different markets, different versions or different conditions. A price in dollars from American sales says little about what the same card sells for in Europe.
Are Japanese cards worth more?
Not always. Japanese cards are separate cards with their own prices. Some are worth more because of their artwork or quality, others are cheaper than their English counterpart.
How often do card prices change?
Every day. Most cards move slowly, but new sets, tournaments and popular videos can make prices jump. Check the price again before you sell.
Does an older card always mean a valuable card?
No. Age helps when a card is rare, in demand and in good condition, but many old cards were printed in huge numbers and are still worth very little. The version and condition matter more than the year.